Come sta?
Let's Go Across the Boot!
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/22/19
Matera, 2019 European City of Culture! What an amazing city! This ancient town in the region of Basilicata is like no other. You could be walking in a city in the Middle East or perhaps in Turkey. There are thousands of caves that were once inhabited by the local population. It was only in 1950 that the people living in the caves were relocated to more modern accommodations. Today, this "Sassi area" of Matera has grown with houses and shops being built over the caves. Because it still has the look of a city much older, it has been used in period type movies like, "Passion of the Christ" and "Wonder Woman". We were told that scenes from the newest James Bond movie were filmed there just a few weeks ago. Matera is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We stayed in a lovely little hotel that had rooms spread out all over the Sassi Barisano. All the rooms of Residence San Giorgio were built over caves and some even had part of the rooms inside a cave. You could see parts of the caves from inside the rooms and one even had an old church. Matera was another fun place to explore. We had an excellent guided tour of the Sassi of Matera with Gaetano who shared all the important information about the long and varied history of the town. We also had a wonderful dinner at Ristorante Dedalo that was located, of course, inside a huge cave. The white-washed walls, with added mythological carvings, was another "out of this world" dining experience.
On Saturday, we said farewell to Matera, which everyone really enjoyed and continued our journey west, across the boot. As if visiting fairytale-like villages, majestic seaports and an ancient cave city was not enough, we had to make a last stop in one of the oldest sites on our tour, Paestum. This Greek town dating from the 6th century BC has three temples that are some of the best preserved Greek structures in the world and therefore, another UNESCO World heritage site. We took some time to explore the small part of the excavated town that was originally called Poseidonia by the Greeks and later changed to Paestum by the Romans in the 3rd century BC. The Romans respected ancient religions, so they did not destroy or rebuild over those places of worship. Thankfully for this, today we have these amazing temples to visit. The Temple of Hera is from 550BC and is the best example of a temple from this period, even better than the Parthenon in Athens, Greece. We were even able to walk inside the temple. During World War II, American soldiers used these temples as a place to camp and there are photos showing them with their laundry hanging out to dry from the temple columns. There is a museum here as well that has some wonderful treasures of both the Greek and Roman ancient world. The painting found from a 5th century BC tomb is the oldest Greek painting anywhere in the world. Paestum truly is an overlooked treasure.
From here we made our way to our little "vacation in a vacation" in the area of the Divine Amalfi Coast and the town of Sorrento. Hotel Il Nido clings to a hill with views that overlook the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius that are stunning. It is the perfect place to settle in for a few days. We did just that and enjoyed dinner with a view from the hotel's fine restaurant. Lemon Risotto with shrimp, fresh seafood and Canelloni Sorrentina were just a few of the delicious dishes we enjoyed. We were also joined here by Michelle Mahoney, a frequent IWF's tour member. She just had to spend a few days in Italy this year and what better place to start.
Sunday was a day of "la dolce vita" for all to enjoy the good life found in this area. Most of the group went to visit the nearby Isle of Capri and had the perfect weather for it. There was also time to shop in all the wonderful stores throughout the area and of course, have more of that delicious coastal cuisine.
On Monday, we rode the crowded train from Sorrento to visit one last UNESCO World heritage site, Pompeii. Wow, have we seen some amazing places or what?! We met our guide, Daniela, an architect with Askos Tours. Having a guide who is also an educated architect adds so much to a tour of this famous ancient Roman city destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79AD. We explored as much as possible and enjoyed every minute of it. Everyone was pretty tired on the train ride back to Sorrento and appreciated a little time to relax in the beautiful setting of Il Nido for a while before heading back into Sorrento for our farewell dinner at Ristorante Tasso. This was the perfect place to end a perfect tour. From the minute you walk inside the lovely setting of Ristorante Tasso, you are treated like family! Once you get past the "donkey sculptures" and take your seat, you are wined and dined to the max! Every dish is delicious and beautiful, the wine is divine and the limoncello is the very best! We almost closed the place down and did make it back just in time to catch the last shuttle back to the hotel. Wow, what a superb evening!
I am sure that you can tell that the first IWF's tour of the region of Puglia was definitely a huge success. I hope that I an return someday and spend a bit more time in Puglia as there are even more lovely places to visit. This group made friends quickly and that made it even a better time for all. I appreciate each and everyone. It is always hard to say goodbye to new friends and when you have experienced such amazing moments together, it is even harder. Our memories will live on forever however, in all the fantastic pictures that everyone took. I will try to get more posted soon.
On Tuesday, everyone said farewell. Larry and Peggy made their way to Naples for a night, Carol stayed on in Sorrento to continue her "roots tour" and everyone else rode with me to the Rome airport. After I turned in the van, which is always a wonderful and freeing experience for me, I picked up little car and Michelle and I headed to Tuscany. This is my little parting gift to myself for all the hard work in the last 6 weeks. Several days "under the Tuscan sun" near Cortona is the perfect way to relax and I did just that. Once again, I was so blessed with tours that were filled with amazing places to see, delicious food and wine, safe travels and delightful tour members. Yes, it is a good life to travel to Italy and France with people who I know have made some new memories of a lifetime! I hope that you can visit Italy or France someday as well. That is it for now as I close another great year of travels with Italy With Friends tours. Buon Natale and felice anno nuovo!! Ciao, Suzan
Puglia is a definite "must see" region of Italy!
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/11/19
Wow, we have had several days of amazing sightseeing in the region of Puglia. On Tuesday, we loaded up the van and drove to the town of Guagnano, not far from Lecce. We stopped at the Feudi di Guagnano, a local winery. Of course, it did take a bit of time to find the small place in a village of tiny streets with cars parked everywhere that they were NOT supposed to be. LOL We met Alessandro and he gave us a very interesting overview of the wine production in the area of the Salento Peninsula. The main grapes grown in the area are Negromaro and Primitivo, both very old traditional grape varieties. We then tasted several of the wines, which all enjoyed very much. There was also some very tasty local munchies to go along with the wine tasting. Remember the Italian motto, "no wine without food, no food without wine". Love it! Everyone had a good time and learned all about a new wine region.
Then we followed Alessandro into the nearby vineyards. Even though the harvest is over, there were still a few grapes on some of the vines, so it was fun to taste them. We enjoyed exploring the fields and being out in the country. Finally, we had to say farewell and continue on our adventures. We headed north along the coast and the water of the Adriatic sea was beautiful. It was a turquoise blue. We turned west as we neared the "white city" of Ostuni. On the way we were surrounded by forests of Olive trees. Some of these huge trees are over 1000 years old. Ostuni sits high on a hill overlooking the olive groves and on to the sea.
We took some time to explore Ostuni and spend a little time shopping. There are several lovely shops selling local products and beautiful art. We then drove to our overnight destination located near the town of Alberobello. Masseria Torricella is one of the many "historic farm centers" found throughout Puglia. Set in the middle of around 100 acres of olive and fruit trees, it is a lovely place to call home for a few days. Everyone was happy to settle into their beautiful rooms with views over the surrounding countryside. Carol and I had rooms in one of the little "casitas" on the farm. We had our own little "slice of heaven" in the fields. There was even one of the "truilli" buildings next to us.
We met for our dinner at the farm and enjoyed a "farm to table" dinner that was delicious. The setting was also lovely. There was plenty of delicious food and local wine made by the farm. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day in the Valle d' Itria.
On Thursday, we met up with Geo once again for another day tour. We started with a drive through the countryside on the way to the coast and the pretty town of Polignano a Mare. This was a lovely coastal town and a favorite of most of the group. It is also the home town of the creator of the famous Italian song, "Volare". There is a huge statue of Domenico Modugno in a piazza by the sea and there were many Italians taking pictures with this native son. We walked along the coast into the old town. This is definitely a town where one can truly enjoy the "good life" in Italy. We stopped for a drink to do just that on a pretty piazza.
Then we visited one of the most popular and most unusual villages in all of Italy, Alberobello. This town is known as the home of the "trulli". The trulli are dwellings that look like they should be in a Smurf village. They are built of limestone with roofs stacked of stone tiles without mortar. I cannot really describe what it is like to see hundreds of these pointed structures dating from the 14th century sitting right in the middle of a 21st century town. This could only happen in Disney World or Las Vegas! It was amazing! Geo led us on a walking tour of the town and explained all about the history of the village. We also visited the Cathedral which had some of the most beautiful, as well as unusual stations of the cross that I have ever seen. Then we stopped by the "Sovrano Trullo" museum to see the only "two story" trulli dwelling. We also had a delicious lunch at La Cantina, one of the oldest restaurants in town. Here we enjoyed a lunch of local favorites of the Cucina Povera or simple, poor food. The restaurant was busy as was the town and several in the group still could not believe that they were not in another world somewhere.
As we headed back to our peaceful "farm hotel", I think all were very happy to have the quiet for a bit. It was a peaceful evening with everyone meeting at our little "Casitas" for wine and snacks. This was one of those evenings that everyone dreams of experiencing while on a trip to Italy. I am so happy that everyone had the chance to be a part of such a wonderful cultural experience.
Yesterday, we said goodbye to our lovely countryside hideaway. I think it will be hard to top our time in Masseria Torricello. We drove north for a visit to the "Symbol of Puglia", Castel del Monte. This 13th century fortress/castle was built by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. It commands a stunning position on the barren plains. We met our guide, Alex who led us throughout the castle and shared the history and "secrets" of the building.
Afterwards, we went to the neaby Masseria Montegusto for a lunch that was another one for the memory books. Alex suggested that we stop here for lunch and it was a great recommendation. Even with limited Italian and English between us all, we sat down to a meal that was amazing! We had an array of local favorites that were delicious. Our waitress, Angela was so kind and added to the wonderful experience. The location of the restaurant was also special with a perfect view of Castel del Monte.
After our perfect lunch we headed south and left the region of Puglia and crossed into the region of Basilicata. Our destination was the ancient town of Matera. Our time in Puglia was a memorable one for sure. I knew that this group would be the perfect one to help me explore this new region. All have enjoyed every minute of it and I hope that someday you can join me on another tour of "the heel of the boot" in Puglia. I will try to get more picture posted of our time in the area as soon as I can. I will see you soon with more updates on our amazing adventures in this new area of Italy. Ciao, Suzan
The Southern Italy Coast to Coast Tour has begun.
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/07/19
Yes, the first Southern Italy - Coast to Coast Tour has officially begun in the region of Puglia. This is a new region for IWF's tours and I am very excited about exploring "the heel of the boot". The group arrived on Sunday into Bari, the capital of Puglia. Everyone on the tour, except for one have traveled on an IWF's tour before. It is always so nice to see familiar faces like Larry and Peggy from the Chicago area, Chris and Merrillyn from Arizona and Frank and Patti from the Austin, Texas area. Carol from Colorado is new to IWF's tours, but will fit in just perfect. We drove to Lecce located in Southern Puglia along the Salentine peninsula. Lecce is sometimes referred to "the Florence of the south" and it is easy to see why. This beautiful city has an old town that is easy to enjoy. We checked into the Hilton Garden Inn and met for a welcome drink and a short orientation.
Then we walked into town and met Silvia a local guide for a walking tour of Lecce's old town. Lecce has a very diverse history and has been controlled through the centuries by many different cultures. You can find remnants of Greek, Norman, Saracen, Roman and Spanish influences throughout the city. The light colored sand-stone of Lecce used in so many of its buildings gives the city an elegant look and is just beautiful. We were able to see it at sundown and it almost glowed. As we walked through the streets, Silvia pointed out some of the most important architectural aspects from each ruling culture. Most were built during the 17th century, so the Baroque style is prevalent on many of the one-time noble family villas. There was really so much to see and it was all amazing.
We also visited several of the most important churches including Santa Croce, with its beautiful altars adorned with cherubs, local flowers and fruit and wolves, the symbol of Lecce. We then walked to Piazza Duomo, which is almost a huge enclosed square made up of religious buildings that one time were locked behind gates for protection from invaders. So many sites in Lecce are one of a kind and not found anywhere else in Italy. There are even some amazing Roman ruins including a large arena that held 15,000 spectators back in the 2nd century AD.
After our walking tour, we sat down for our welcome dinner at the Osteria Vecchio, a restaurant serving some Lecce favorites. We enjoyed a long dinner with delicious food and local wine. Our walk back to the hotel was just what everyone needed. It was a very good start to our visit to the region of Puglia.
This morning we woke to fairly clear skies, but with rain predicted for the day. We all grabbed our rain gear and headed our for sightseeing of the Salentine peninsula. Geo met the group and we loaded up in his van for a day out. I was especially glad to not be driving for the day. It also just happened to be my birthday. We began our outing with a drive through the countryside that is filled with olive trees and old farms called Masserias. Our first stop was in the coastal town of Otranto, the easternmost city of Italy. It is only about 50 miles across the Adriatic to Albania, which we could see today. This pretty seaside village was pretty quiet today, but will be packed during the months of July and August. We visited the old town with its Norman Castle walls. Inside is the towns church that consists of a lower and upper church. The lower church feels almost like a mosque with its low ceiling and many columns. Each column is different and came from different countries as booty for a victorious battle. The upper chapel is much larger and is filled with magnificent mosaic floors. The treasure of the church is the chapel dedicated to the 700 martyrs who refused to convert to Islam during a raid by the Saracens. They were all beheaded for their faith. They were buried in a mass grave near the church but today are honored in this very special chapel.
On our way out of Lecce, we stopped in a wonderful pastry/gelato shop that had some of the prettiest pastries that I have ever seen. Then we drove along the coastal road that had amazing views out to sea. We made a stop at an ancient Roman watch tower. During Roman occupation the town of Brindisi along the coast was the end of the Appian Way and where ships would sail from to trade with the eastern provinces. Other towns were later used as jumping off points for the crusader ships heading to Jerusalem.
We made a stop in the small town of Castro and sat down to a lunch that will definitely be remembered by all. We were served some amazing fish dishes, along with local wine. The setting of La Grotto del Conte is lovely and we felt like royalty. They even had a special birthday cake for me! Spending a birthday in Italy is already very special, but today's lunch made it a memorable one for sure.
Then we drove even further south until we were actually at the tip of the heel of the boot. Here was another lovely port city shining brightly. From the bottom of the heel of the boot we turned north and drove to another important port town, Gallipoli. It is located on the Ionian sea. The old town is actually on an island and has a very impressive Norman castle. We took time to walk around and visit several churches that were all very unusual. We finally made our way back to Lecce and our hotel. I have only touched on a few of our adventures today, but I can assure you it was a day to remember. I think everyone is very impressed with the region of Puglia so far and look forward to wonderful new things to see in the next few days. I will return then to share more of our adventures. Ciao, Suzan
Southern Italy is Stunning!
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/04/19
When we left Rome behind on Wednesday, we also left that perfect weather behind. We really have been so blessed with blue skies and mild temperatures. It is not fair to complain about a few raindrops here and there. At least, it was nice and cool. We drove out of the crazy Rome traffic and headed south towards Naples. Before long, we were pulling into one of Italy's most famous historical sights, Pompeii. We took some time for a nice lunch where many of us enjoyed the Naploli style pizza. YUM!! Then it was time to meet the guide, Roberta, who would lead everyone through the ruins of Pompeii. Most are familiar with the story of how Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79AD and covered the Roman port town of Pompeii with ash, therefore preserving it in a type of "time capsule". Today, we are able to walk among the ruins, that are still being excavated, and see what life was like for an average Roman centuries ago. It is always a very special experience.
Then we drove to the stunning Sorrentine Peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean Sea. This is a great place to call home while exploring famous spots like the Isle of Capri or the Amalfi Coast with its tiny villages spilling down the side of cliffs into the sea. Hotel Il Nido, which means "the nest", is also perfect and has views over the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius looming large. It did not take long for everyone to get to their balconies to enjoy this picture perfect vista. We were also lucky enough to have a bit of time without the rain that was predicted.
We then made our way into the town of Sorrento, a pretty town that has an old town of cobblestone streets filled with shops that go on forever. Once we did get to Sorrento it did begin to rain, so we stepped inside the Sorrento Duomo for a visit. The peaceful Duomo did become our refuge for a while as a storm began to roar with lighting and thunder. I suppose you could not ask for a better place to sit out the storm. Finally, we were able to make it to Ristorante Tasso for our dinner. After the initial shock of the art on display at the restaurant entrance, (I will let your loved ones tell you about that.) we were greeted warmly by everyone. This is one of my favorite places to eat while in Italy and the smiles on everyone's faces let me know that they are happy to see me and my groups as well. From the moment we sat down until we almost shut the place down, everyone was wined and dined to perfection. Marco and Tony were just a few who made that happen. What a truly perfect evening!
Yesterday, we did wake to some pretty heavy storms which was not quite what everyone wanted, as many had plans to visit nearby Capri on their free day. It did not stop the group from enjoying the day however and by mid morning, the storms had gone and blue skies were amazing overhead. Sorrento is a lovely place to sit back and relax a bit and several did just that. Some even made it to Capri.
This morning everyone met early to begin a very special day with a drive along the famous Amalfi Coast. Francesco met the group and soon departed for a drive that I know each and everyone will remember forever. They will visit the pretty villages of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. There will also be time for a stop at Valentin's Limoncello factory to learn how this delicious local liqueur is made. Of course, what they will never forget about this drive is the hundreds of cars and buses that are also making the drive and moving at a snail's pace for much of the way. How they can do this without scraping each others cars to the max is unbelievable. That is why I do not drive on the Amalfi Coast!
Tonight we met for our last meal together. We have spent a good deal of time around the table and tonight was as wonderful as the first. Good food, wine and conversation with new or old friends is truly one of life's greatest pleasures. Add a perfect setting like here in Sorrento, and you have a little slice of heaven. As always it is sad to say farewell, but I know that everyone will be taking home memories of a very special trip through Bella Italia.
Tomorrow I will head east across the boot of Italy for a new tour starting in the region of Puglia. This is a new destination for IWF's and I am very excited. Join me there in a few days to be a part of a new region filled with pretty villages, great wine and sparkling beaches. Thanks for following the blog for the Bella Italia tour. Ciao, Suzan
Roma, Roma, Roma!
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/03/19
The Eternal city of Rome was definitely enjoyed by all. Exploring this huge city can be a bit daunting to first-time travelers, but it can also be one of the most amazing experiences you will ever have. Having the 360 degree view of Rome from our hotel's rooftop really helps one understand how much is out there to see! There are many layers to Rome, ancient to modern. It is truly a magnificent city.
We began our exploration with a visit inside the Pantheon, my personal favorite. This "temple to all gods", built in 120AD has been in constant use since its construction. After centuries of being a pagan temple, it became a Catholic church in the 7th century, so it was protected from the ravages of later generations taking its building material to use in more modern buildings. The huge dome of the Pantheon was the last of its type to built until the Renaissance. Inside you have a very accurate idea of what an ancient Roman temple really looked like. The marble floor is over 1700 years old. The huge opening in the roof is 30 feet in diameter and rain does fall through it. The story of its construction is also very interesting and that is why it is one of the most influential buildings in art history today.
From here we headed towards the Tiber river with a stop on the way at Campo dei Fiori. This large piazza has always been a lively square and a market has stood here for centuries. Today, you can find just that and it is fun to explore the picture perfect vegetable stalls. Next, we crossed the Tiber River on the Ponte Sant' Angelo which leads to Castel Sant' Angelo, the 2nd century tomb of the Emperor Hadrian. The beautiful bridge is lined with the Bernini Angel sculptures. From here you can get your first good view of the huge dome of St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City.
We made our way to St. Peter's Square and everyone was pretty amazed at the size and beauty of the Basilica and square. After a quick lunch, it was time for a guided tour of the extensive Vatican Museum and St. Peter's. The guide, Rosella led everyone through the many rooms of the museum filled with Greek and Roman sculpture, paintings by Raffaelle and others, stunning tapestries and a map room depicting Italy in the 1300's that is perfect. Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel is the crowning glory of the tour and always very special to see. From the chapel you then can enter in St. Peter's which is the largest Christian church in the world. That pretty much says it all, so a visit inside is filled with treasures.
Later in the evening, we met for dinner together at one of my favorite trattorias in Rome. Here Stanley and Faith made our time around the table perfect. Food was delicious and service was superb. Afterwards, we walked over to another famous landmark in Rome, the Spanish Steps. It was the perfect way to end a day of fantastic exploration in this eternal city.
On Tuesday, there was some time in the morning for everyone to get out and about on their own for a bit before meeting to explore some ancient Rome's most important sights. We started with Capital Hill, where Rome began back in 760BC. The staircase leading up to the Piazza Campidoglio was designed by Michelangelo in the 15th century. The buildings surrounding the piazza are today museums, the oldest in the world. This is also the seat of Rome's city government even today.
Behind this piazza is the Roman Forum dating back to the beginning of Rome as well. One can only imagine all the famous people in history who have walked these cobblestones. We made our own walk down Via dei Fori Imperiali lined with many of Forum buildings. This large avenue leads to the Roman Colosseum. What a sight! We took some time to enjoy another delicious meal at Ristorante Gladiatori before our guided tour of the Colosseum entering the famous arena through the gate where the Gladiators would have entered many centuries ago. Guido, our guide then led everyone through the Colosseum providing wonderful historical information. This was followed by a visit inside the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. It was a complete and wonderful visit to some of ancient Rome's most important treasures.
This last evening was free for everyone to enjoy Rome as they wished. I am pretty sure that Roma will be fondly remembered by all, even though it also probably gave everyone a few sore muscles. Oh well, that is what a good glass of vino is for. Salute!
More magical days under the Tuscan sun.
by Suzan Rozypal on 10/01/19
Everyone has really enjoyed being in Tuscany. Spending time in beautiful San Gimignano is always a treat and everyone had a whole day to do just that. It is easy to enjoy and there is a lot to see and do. Several chose to get a little exercise and climb the Torre Grande, the tallest tower in SG. Of course, there was also time to enjoy some delicious Tuscan food and wine. Jeff and Marlene chose to take an excursion into the Brunello wine country with a visit to several wineries and the town of Montalcino. Everyone definitely had time to savor the award winning gelato from the shop on our piazza. YUM!
On Saturday we loaded up the van and headed to another famous Tuscan hill town, Siena. Everyone enjoyed our walking tour with a stop in the one of a kind, Piazza Il Campo. Learning about the Palio horse race that takes place here two times a year was also fun and there was even a video to watch showing this exciting slice of Sienese history. Then we visited inside the Siena Duomo, one of the most ornate in all of Italy. This is on the outside and inside as well. There was plenty of time to take in all the art that is inside to see such as sculpture by Michelangelo, Bernini and Donnatello. The marble mosaic floors are truly stunning and we were lucky enough to be visiting while they are all uncovered for viewing. It took over 100 years and 40 different artists to create these masterpieces. Everyone then had some time to grab lunch or shop or just sit in Il Campo and watch all the people enjoying a beautiful Saturday afternoon.
Then we moved deeper into Tuscany, almost to the border of the region of Umbria. If you have never seen the movie, "Under The Tuscan Sun", then you are missing a wonderful adventure in the town of Cortona. We made our own visit to Cortona, which is actually a very old city with Etruscan roots and a 2500 year old wall. It is a small town that is perfect for a short visit where you can find never-ending views over the surrounding countryside and Lake Trasemieno.
Our overnight destination was just outside Cortona at Borgo Il Melone. This one-time farm estate is today a beautiful hotel where you can feel as though you have stepped back a bit in time. We enjoyed some relaxation on the terrace with local wine and Italian chocolate. We also had dinner in the hotel restaurant which was also very good. I think we may have driven the poor owner a bit crazy, but the meal was delicious.
On Sunday morning everyone had some time to take in the pretty surroundings of Borgo Il Melone a bit before we moved south into the region of Umbria, known as the "green heart of Italy". We made a stop in the grand Umbrian hill town of Orvieto. This is another one of those places that is just hard to believe exists where people live life everyday without a second thought to living in one of the prettiest places on earth. We started with a visit inside the Orvieto Duomo built because of a miracle in the 13th century. The church facade is stunning, as well as the San Brizio Chapel inside which was painted by Luca Signorelli in the 15th century. His representation of the "last Judgment" is very impressive. Everyone then went on the Orvieto Underground Tour which was enjoyed very much. Finally, we stopped for lunch at Trattoria Tippica Etrusca where Solomon and Averino welcomed us with open arms. What a wonderful time at the table! There was time for a wine tasting of the Orvieto Classico white wine, which was enjoyed by all. Then as the Umbrian dishes appeared, there were plenty of oohs and ahs. It was another delicious meal with friends in a perfect setting. It was hard to say farewell to Soloman and Orvieto. I know that everyone could have spent more time enjoyed this very special hill town.
But, it was time to head to the Eternal city of Roma. A visit to Rome, the capital city of Italy is on many a "bucket list". We made our way into the heart of the historical district to our hotel, Pace Helvezia. Everyone's first view over Rome from the hotel's fantastic rooftop terrace is always fun for me to see. It is truly jaw-dropping. Although I know that everyone was pretty tired, we took a little walking tour through the heart of Rome. We finally stopped for a drink in Piazza Navona. This pretty piazza with Bernini's "Fountain of the Four Rivers", is always lively. It was a great spot to begin our adventures in this amazing city. I will return soon to tell you about our time in Roma. Ciao, Suzan
Under the Tuscan Sun!
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/27/19
As we said farewell to lovely Florence, everyone was thankful for our beautiful weather. Yes, we have been lucky to be "under the Tuscan sun". Everyone enjoyed their time in the capital of Tuscany. The cooking class was a success and all learned some new dishes to add to their family dinners once they return home. Most just had gelato for dinner that evening after enjoying such a special lunch made by their own hands. There was time for shopping in this fashion capital and more than a few found some very special treasures.
Our first stop as headed into the amazing Tuscan countryside was to visit the American Military Cemetery located just outside of Florence. Here we met Angel, the Superintendent at the cemetery and he took time to share with all of us the history and mission of the American Battle Monuments Association. Almost 5000 marble crosses and stars of David stand as testament to the brave men and women who fought so valiantly during WWII to bring an end to Fascism in this area. It is always a very emotional visit for my tour members and this visit was made even more so because we were able to meet a "next of kin" visitor who had come from Minnesota to visit the graves of two of his cousins, one of the 6 set of brothers buried in this location. Hearing their story and knowing that he was the first of his family to ever make this journey was very moving.
After time to honor these fallen, we moved deeper into Tuscany and what is called the Chianti area. Of course, most are familiar with Chianti wines. This area is filled with lush vineyards and olive groves. We were able to see the vines full of grapes ready for harvest. The winding roads have amazing vistas around every turn. Our destination was the Castello di Verrazzano wine estate. They have been producing wine since the 10th century. Giovanni di Verrazzano was an explorer who explored along the eastern shore of America and sailed into the bay of New York in 1524. He was just one of the many Italian explorers who contributed to the exploration of the new world. Today, his family home is open to all to explore and enjoy a "wine and food experience". After a wonderful guided tour of the estate and its ageing cellars with Maria, we sat down in a lovely dining room for a magnificent lunch of homemade Tuscan favorites accompanied by the Verrazzano estate wines. What an experience for all! There is really no way to just describe the natural beauty of Tuscany in words. Then if you add a delicious meal of the region's favorite foods and wines, you have just stepped into a little slice of heaven on earth. We all did just that and sat for hours enjoying a multi-course extravaganza of yummy delights. By the time the Grappa and cafe appeared, the table was filled with empty glasses of all kinds. It was hard to say goodbye to Castello di Verrazzno for sure.
Then we drove through more of the lovely hills of Chianti on our way to one of Tuscany's most famous hill towns, San Gimignano. What makes this town so special is that there are 13 medieval towers still standing tall, giving San Gimignano the name "la citta' di belle torri". In the 1300's there were actually 75 towers! The Historic Centre of San Gimignano is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We just happen to stay right in the middle of it at our lovely Hotel Leon Bianco, located on Piazza Cisterna. After checking in we met to take a little orientation walk around town. We climbed one of the sentry towers of the old Fortezza for amazing views. Piazza Cisterna is picture perfect and it was a good spot to end our day. I will return soon with more adventures under the Tuscan sun. Ciao, Suzan
Wow, the Bella Italia tour has begun with a bang!!
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/25/19
Just as I was saying farewell to one group, a new one arrived into Venice. The Bella Italia tour group met in the lobby of Hotel Ala for a meet and greet on Sunday. I have some returning tour members and it was wonderful to say hello to Fred and Cynthia from New Jersey again. There was also Joe returning from Philadelphia with his wife Cheryl. Jeff and Marlene hail from New York while Kevin and Janet are here from Canada. It did not take long for everyone to get to know each other. We then headed out for a little walking tour to visit a few sights before our dinner at Vino Volo. We sat in a lovely courtyard and enjoyed a round of Bellinis, a drink created in Venice at Harry's Bar. They are made with Prosecco and white peach juice. A perfect drink for a welcome toast to Venice. Dinner was also very delicious and a great way for everyone to visit and start getting to know each other.
On Monday we did wake to a bit of rain, but we headed out anyway and were lucky enough to have the rain let up enough for us to make our visit to St. Mark's and make the steep climb up to the Terrace Museum. We were able to take in that amazing view of St. Mark's Square and the lagoon before the heavens opened up and the rain poured. Luckily that was the perfect time for everyone to visit inside the museum and see the Bronze Horses, one of the many treasures of this church. These horses are from the 2nd century AD and have traveled all over the world. They never cease to amaze me.
Next, we walked over to the Rialto Bridge hoping to visit the Tedacio terrace, but due to the weather, it was closed. We then crossed the bridge and walked around the commercial are of Venice. Even though the markets were closed on Monday, it was interesting to visit the 17th century Fish Market building. It is definitely the prettiest fish market building that I have ever seen. We then found a great little pizza place and sat down and enjoyed a nice lunch.
Afterwards there was free time for everyone to enjoy Venice to the max. Jeff and Marlene opted for a tour to the islands of Murano and Burano. Several of the others visited some of the fine museums in Venice and were able to take that Gondola ride. We met for our official "Welcome dinner" at Da Raffaelle. I love this restaurant! The food is always fresh and delicious and the service is unmatched anywhere in Venice. By the time the Limoncello arrived, the Bella Italia tour was on its way to an amazing start.
Yesterday, we said farewell to Venezia and boarded a water taxi to pick up the van and continue our trek through Italy. We headed to Firenze or Florence, the capital of Tuscany, always a favorite. We made a quick stop at Piazzalle Michelangelo located high above the city of Florence. Seeing the city from this point always is a "wow" moment for most first time visitors. We then made the crazy drive into Florence and checked into the Hotel Pendini located right in the middle of everything. We walked through the Renaissance streets and piazzas of one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Florence's Duomo (the cathedral of Santa Maria dei Fiori) is truly one of the most majestic in all of Italy. Its huge red dome seems to be always visible no matter where you are in the city.
After time to take in much of the art and architecture in Florence we made our way to the Museo Accademia to visit one of the world's most famous sculptures, Michelangelo's "David". Even though we had just seen the replica that stands in the original location where David stood for almost 350 years in Piazza Signoria, seeing the "real thing" was fantastico! David never fails to amaze his visitors. Michelangelo was truly a master artist and there will be several of his masterpieces seen during the tour.
Afterwards, there was some free time before we enjoyed our first Tuscan dinner together at Il Latini. This Florentine landmark restaurant has been serving up Tuscan favorites family style for years. All of the appetizers, pastas, soups, meats, vegetables and desserts were enjoyed by all. The wine and Limoncello were pretty yummy as well. It was a nice way to also celebrate the 30th anniversary of Jeff and Marlene. What a super place for a celebration! Salute!!
Today, was also a fantastic day for all as we began the day with a visit to the Central Market led by Chef Walter from the Chefactory Cooking School. Walter was full of information as he led everyone around the market tasting Basalmico, cheese, truffles, olive oils and more. He explained all about the process of producing many of these worldwide famous Italian products and how they are regulated and protected. It was very interesting. It also helps one realize why so many of these products are quite expensive.
After all this fun in the market it was time for the cooking class. I left the group wearing their new aprons, looking spiffy and ready to cook. After the class everyone had time to shop and I know a few were heading back to the San Lorenzo market to do just that. I cannot wait to hear all about the class, as I know it is always a favorite adventure on my tours.
I was lucky enough to be able to join some former tour members, Donna and Patti, who were visiting Florence from the St. Louis area. This is one the nicest things about Italy With Friends tours. Meeting wonderful people from all over the world and perhaps meeting up with them again in Italy or in the US to enjoy a glass of wine together.
Tomorrow we say farewell to Florence and move deeper into the magical Tuscan countryside. I will see you in a few days with more adventures of the Bella Italia tour. Ciao, Suzan
Some final amazing days in Italy!
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/25/19
We have had an amazing time enjoying Italy. Everyone loved Tuscany and our visit to Pisa. Most could not really believe that there was so much more to see there than just a "leaning tower". It made me feel so good to know that everyone really did appreciate the beauty and history of this one special spot in Tuscany. Then we stopped in Lucca for a visit. It was also a big hit. There was time for a short walking tour and shopping. Then we hit the Autostrada and headed north through the mountains. We hit the rush hour traffic in Florence, but made it fine to our overnight location near Modena.
We checked into the hotel and made a mad dash to the restaurant as everyone was pretty hungry. We enjoyed a delicious meal with many of the favorite dishes found in the Emilia Romagna region. Everyone was pretty tired and all were ready for a good night's sleep.
Saturday was a fun day with a visit to the town of Maranello, home of Ferrari. It was a special day for Russ and Joy as they were able to participate in a super special Ferrari exhibit. Several others in the group went along as well. Everyone in the group also visited the Ferrari Museum. No matter how your feel about cars, one cannot help but be impressed with the world of Ferrari.
Then we stopped for our lunch at Eataly World located near Bologna. This mega-food store had every type of food and food product produced throughout Italy. You could spend days looking at all the exhibits and tasting all the different foods from every region in Italy. We only had a short time, but it was a fun experience.
Finally we made our way to Venice and all boarded water taxis for a ride to the island of Venice. After time to check into the lovely Hotel Ala, we met for a welcome drink in the hotel's bar. What a perfect way to begin our last few days together in Italy. This was followed by a short walking tour before everyone was off on their own to enjoy the evening.
We woke to a dreary Sunday, but made our way to the viewing terrace on top of the Tedacio Shopping mall. The view of the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal is unmatched from this spot. You can also see all over the city and the domes of St. Mark's Basilica. Afterwards, we did walk to St. Mark's square hoping to visit the museum at St. Mark's, but it was closed. Still do not know the reason why as it did open up later in the day. Everyone then had time to enjoy Venice on their own.
I left this group and met with the new Bella Italia group who had all arrived today. I will tell you more about that in another posting later.
Finally, we met for our farewell dinner at Da Raffalle restaurant. We luckily were seated at a table in the back of the restaurant. By the time we closed down the place, we had enjoyed another delicious meal together with plenty of laughter. This had been a fabulous group and after dinner several of us headed for St. Mark's Square and sat to enjoy the music. It was a perfect way to top a perfect tour group. As always, I feel so blessed when I have a group who enjoy each other and the places that they have seen along the way. Several will head home tomorrow but a few will stay on a bit to enjoy Venice and Rome. Thank you to all for making the Kemm Family and Friends tour one of the best. Ciao, Suzan
Everyone is in love with Italy.
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/19/19
Ciao tutti, We have been enjoying Italy for the past few days to the max! We left France behind Tuesday morning and hit the road for a pretty curvy drive along the coast and through the mountains on our way to the Italian region of Piedmonte. Our destination was an area called the Langhe Hills and the village of Barolo. This region is famous for some of Italy's best red wines. The area is filled with vineyards that have been producing the Nebbiola grape for centuries. Several years ago the Langhe Hills was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for this history of winemaking. Everyone enjoyed walking around the pretty town that is pretty much made up of wine shops. There was time for a quick lunch before we moved on to nearby La Morra, another stunning high hill town.
In La Morra, we enjoyed a fun wine tasting at the La Morra Cantina. Here Francesca introduced everyone to the local wines and explained about the grapes used and the methods of production for each one. We tried a Barbera d'Alba, a Nebbiola and of course a Barolo. Everyone really enjoyed the wine and learning about this celebrated region. Afterwards, there was time to explore La Morra a bit and to experience one of the most amazing views in Italy. Since La Morra sits over1000 feet above the valley, you have views of the huge valley filled with quaint villages, castles, vineyards and hazelnut trees. It is truly jaw-dropping to see.
Once we left La Morra we wound our way down the hills and made a stop for some photo time in the vineyards and fun on the huge red bench. Check out the photos to see just how much fun everyone did have. Then we were off to our lovely overnight destination, the Fontanafredda wine estate and their beautiful Hotel Le Case Dei Conti Mirafiore. There was some time to rest in the luxurious rooms or walk around the estate's amazing grounds before meeting for one of the most memorable dinners on the trip.
Bistrot Guido, a part of the 1-Star Michellin rated Ristorante Guido is located in what was the one-time family estate villa. We sat down at a huge table for 15 guests and began an amazing evening. We were actually the only people in the room other than another table of 4. There is actually a kitchen in the room as well where you can watch your food being prepared by one of the Bistrot chefs. We had Chef Paolo for our dinner. Our hostess was Sofia and she did a fantastic job of handling 15 people. We were served a set menu that consisted of multiple courses accompanied by estate wines. I do not have enough time to tell you about each course, but I can assure you that all were delicious! Everyone had the chance to try some new wines as well. By the time the dessert, which was homemade Fiori Latte gelato, everyone was pretty much in foodie heaven. It was truly an evening to remember. We had delicious food and wine served in a beautiful setting with perfect service. What more could anyone ask for??
Yesterday, there was time to relax a bit and enjoy the estate in the morning. Harvest had started, so it was fun to see all the activity in the winery. I think it was hard for everyone to say farewell to this amazing setting. We did say goodbye however, and once again found ourselves on a very curvy Autostrada on our way south to the Ligurian coast and the Italian Riviera. We passed through the huge and busy city of Genoa, home to Christopher Columbus. Here we had our first glimpse of the sea, but this time on the other side of the Mediterranean from the one we had enjoyed on France's Riviera. Finally we made our way to Sestri Levante, a pretty European resort style town along the Italian Riviera. Everyone was pretty tired and when they saw the Hotel Vis a' Vis, our home for the next two nights, they were pretty excited. The views alone from its high perch on a hill overlooking the town and sea below is pretty amazing, but the rooms and staff are wonderful too. Everyone headed up to the rooftop terrace bar to soak in those amazing views and enjoy a cocktail. It was truly a perfect place to be.
Later we walked into town to see the sights before sitting down to another fantastic dinner at Ristorante Verve. Here Kenneth and Chica welcomed us with open arms and once again all enjoyed a delicious meal with great local wines.
Today was a free day for all and what a great place for it. Several spent the day enjoying Sestri Levante. The VC hopped on a private boat for a visit to the nearby Cinque Terre villages. They even took some time to swim in the sea. Wow! What an unforgettable experience! Sarah and I had a delicious lunch at the Ristorante Castelli that we shared with a very attentive Sea Gull.
This evening everyone met at the Zeus Bar on the terrace for some live entertainment that turned out to be fabulous! There were several opera singers that "wowed" everyone in the place. It was a perfect way to end several days in this peaceful spot along Italy's coast. I have a feeling that there may be a few who return here someday, just as I have again and again ever since my sister and I discovered Sestri Levante many years ago.
Tomorrow we will head into Tuscany for the day and then move north to the Emilia Romagna region for the night. I have no doubt that it will be love at first sight when they see Tuscany and the walled town of Lucca. I will try to get more pictures posted when I have faster Internet, I promise. I have some wonderful photos. I will see you in a few days. Ciao, Suzan
More fun in Provence.
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/16/19
Saturday was another wonderful day of sightseeing as the group met with their local guide, Anna in the town of Arles. Arles has an ancient Roman connection with several 1st century AD buildings. The Arena is almost intact and used today for Bull fights. Arles also has a strong connection to the artist Vincent Van Gogh who lived in Arles in the late 19th century. Vincent painted some of his most famous paintings during his time in Provence. It was quite a treat to actually walk in the footsteps of Vincent and see the exact spot where he painted treasures like "the yellow house" and "starry night".
Also on Saturday the rest of the group arrived into the Marseille airport. These 6 people will join the tour members from the VC. Missy Davis and Sarah Eoff traveled with the Kemms and Wallaces a few years ago and have returned to enjoy more fun in France and Italy. Missy is from the San Antonio area and Sarah is a dear friend of mine living only about 10 minutes from my home. Missy has actually brought along some friends of her own as well. Michael and Martha Haupt from San Antonio, Texas are here, as well as Dennis and Carol Hall from Missouri. The Hall's are from Missy's home town, so that means that the state of Missouri is strongly represented on this tour. After some time to settle into the hotel we met on the lovely terrace for a meet and greet. It did not take long to see that this group was going to get along just fine.
We then drove into the pretty Provencal town of St-Remy-de-Provence for our welcome dinner. St. Remy is just amazing! There are pretty little shops
everywhere. Every building seems to have different colored shutters,
some in soft pastels. Our welcome dinner was held at L'Aile ou la
Cuisse Bistrot. We sat down and truly enjoyed our first meal together. Our dinner was not only delicious, but served like a work of art. We
also had local wines that were superb. Of course, the desserts at
this restaurant are one of its highlights. They sit in a large display
cabinet in front of the restaurant, so that you can see them from
outside on the street. Before you enter, you already have an idea that
you will be ordering dessert for sure. Ours were amazing. By the time we said farewell to all the very helpful staff, everyone agreed that this meal would be hard to beat.
On the way back to Fontvieille, I needed to find a gas station. I had let my gas get a bit below what I like it to be. We did find a station that was open 24 hours. For some reason, the machines would not take any of my American credit cards. A very nice man, who happened to be Italian, offered to let us use his card to get the gas we needed. I then paid him in Euro the amount owed. What a super nice man and in a country that sometimes gets a bad rapt for being unfriendly to Americans.
Yesterday, we said farewell to the lovely setting of Le Val Majour in Fontvieille. I know that many people in the US have a rather "sour" idea of a Best Western hotel, but in Europe Best Western is usually a very nice property. Remember to keep an open mind about some things.
We headed to nearby Les-Baux-de-Provence, another very popular site in France. This perched village sitting on top of a "spur" is truly amazing. There was time to visit the old Castle ruins with views that certainly bring several "wow" moments. Then there was time to wander the tiny streets of the once medieval village that today has many chic shops. There are not many places like Les Baux in the US unless you are visiting a Disney property.
After time to enjoy all we could of Provence we loaded up the vans and hit the Autoroute for a drive to another very famous area, the French Riviera. We arrived in the town of Nice and settled into the Hotel Aston La Scala. This lovely 4-star hotel is in the perfect location and even has a rooftop terrace bar that has views of the magical Mediterranean. After some time to settle in, we met for a walking tour of Nice ending in the Old Town Nice for dinner. We sat down to a delicious "al fresco" dinner and enjoyed some local dishes, along with local wine. By the time we ended our evening on the roof of the hotel, all were pretty tired and ready to hit the sack.
Today, was a free day for all. Several chose to visit nearby Monaco, while some just chilled out here in Nice. It was truly a wonderful day for all and perhaps some can add a "check" to their bucket list of places they wished to visit. We were blessed with perfect weather and I am pretty sure that everyone will leave with fond memories of their time on the French Riviera.
So, I will return in a few days as we head to Italy tomorrow. I am sure I am going to have some wonderful things to share as we enter my favorite country. See you then. Ciao, Suzan
Welcome to the Fall season Italy With Friends Tours.
by Suzan Rozypal on 09/14/19
Hello Everyone. Yes, it is time for another season of IWF's tours. I left a hot Texas on September 9th, saying goodbye to some very sad eyes as all my animals watched me drive away. They just seem to know that the larger suitcase means that I am going to be gone a bit longer. I
flew into Rome and picked up my van. Then I hit the Autostrada for a two-day drive into
France to the town of Fontvieille. This will be the base for
the next few days of the Kemm Family & Friends France/Italy Adventure. The Hotel Le Val Majour is
lovely and a perfect spot to call home while touring around the
Provence region.
On Thursday, September 12th, I
picked up the VC (Vernon County, Missouri) connection at the Avignon TGV train station. They had flown into Paris and spent a day seeing all its amazing sights. Two of the couples, Nancy & David Wallace and Russ & Joy Kemm have traveled with me before. Russ came up with the idea to return to Europe and bring along some family and friends. His son, Brandon and his wife Haley joined the group along with friends, Craig and Paula Heard. We loaded up the van and hit the road right away. Everyone was in pretty good shape and raring to go and see the sights in Provence.
We drove to one of France's most popular sites, the Pont du Gard. This Roman aqueduct bridge over the Gardon River was built in 19AD. It is the only one still standing anywhere from the ancient Roman world. It is one of the many UNESCO World Heritage sites in France. It is truly amazing to behold. We enjoyed a little hike around the area and then sat down to a cool welcome at the little Terraces Bar. With the Pont du Gard as our backdrop, how could you not enjoy this drink?
Then we drove to our hotel and after everyone settled in a bit, we met to walk into Fontvieille for our welcome dinner at Les Bel Oustau restaurant. Just as you might dream of, we sat outside in a pretty courtyard for our dinner. We began our meal with a bottle of Rose wine. Here is Provence, Rose is very
popular and also very good. It is nothing like that awful Beringer's
White Zinfindel that so many of us used to think was the only wine to
drink. LOL In fact, many in this group loved it and decided to drink it instead of a white wine with their meal.
Our dinner was an amazing experience. Everyone was adventurous and tried some new dishes. Every dish came prepared and served beautifully. We opened a bottle of local red wine that was also very nice. The desserts were all works of art and very tasty. When we departed around 11PM, everyone was happy and our tummies were full. Thank goodness we did have a little walk back to the hotel. It was a very good way to start a new tour with a wonderful group of family and friends.
On Friday, everyone felt refreshed and ready to go exploring. We woke to a lovely day which is perfect for sightseeing. Our
destination for the day was the Luberon Valley. Here you find some of
Provence's most beautiful villages. We chose Gordes for our first
stop. This high perched village is listed as "one of the most beautiful
villages of France." It is easy to see why. I was so excited to be able to see it in the sunshine, as it always seems to be a bit dreary when I am here. Seeing the views of the Luberon Valley from this perched village was a lovely surprise.
We then
drove the curving roads to the town of Roussillon. Another lovely hill
town, Roussillon is known for its huge deposit of Ochre, a red clay and
iron oxide mixture that creates colorful cliffs.
We headed into the center of Roussillon, another very cute village. It was very busy with a lot of people enjoying a day of sightseeing. We sat down to a delicious lunch at Le Grappe de Raisin. They have a pretty terrace with views over the city. The food was once again great to eat and to look at. After lunch, we walked up to the viewing point of the village and had an amazing view of the valley below
filled with little villages and vineyards. Wow! There was then time to take a little hike through the Ochre canyon and see all those vibrant colors that are created by Mother Nature.
Near Roussillion is a fabulous example of Roman engineering, the Pont Julien. This bridge with one large arch was built in the first century AD. It was used for centuries until only a few year ago when they diverted the road around it. It has withstood Roman legions marching across, floods, and car traffic. It is pretty amazing to see today. On the way back to Fontvieille, we stop at the Auchan Supermarket, which is always fun. Who doesn't like visiting a supermarket on their vacation? Everyone found something to buy including some of the most delicious macarons ever. We ate them on the way back to the hotel. YUM!
Welcome to the Italy With Friends Blog
by Suzan Rozypal on 04/14/10
Ciao to Everyone,
I have created this blog as a means of communication between former, current, and future tour members. Please feel free to join in the conversation. I will be using this blog to write a daily journal of our tours once we are in Italy. It will be a great way to share your experiences on the trip with people you know. Just a note, I will be able to preview all comments on the blog before they are published on the website, therefore every posting may not make it.
Also, I have created a new website that is for posting pictures. I believe I can also write a daily journal there. You may want to take a look now. I have photo albums from previous tours available now. It is on www.italywithfriendstours.shutterfly.com and you do not have be a member to view the photos. If you want to write a comment or share the pictures with others, then you do have to sign up, but it is free. So check it out. Just click on the link and it should take you right to my website.
Thats all for today. Let's see how this works out. Ciao, Suzan
P.S. There is no spell check for blogging, so be kind.
